 |
|
|
| |
 |
METALFIX/METALFIX 1000
Some Commonly asked questions and answers about the use of METALFIX/METALFIX
1000
Q: What is the difference between METALFIX and METALFIX
1000 ?
A: METALFIX has been designed to go directly
over rusted steel — it has a low pH which enables it to phosphate
all rust into corrosion-resistant phosphated steel, AND it simultaneously
forms a tough abrasion-resistant skin during the same operation.
METALFIX 1000 was designed to be applied over NON-RUSTED surfaces
(e.g, new steelwork, wood, plastic, alloys, etc) to give the
same protection against corrosion.
Q: What types of rust can be treated with the METALFIX
and what preparation is required?
A: METALFIX can be used over any type of rust,
no matter where it is found — generally the worse the rust,
the better the coating will function. For preparation, remove
any oil, grease, or diesel etc., with undiluted FLOORPREP, clean
the whole surface with a 10% FLOORPREP solution, rinse with
fresh water and allow to dry. Wire-brush the rusted surface
to remove any loose flakes and chip away any thick scale. Wash
down with fresh water and allow to dry, and then apply two coats
of METALFIX over the rusted areas. Do not dilute the paint with
water.
Q:
How can I treat previously-painted steel surfaces where rust
is beginning to show through in patches, but some of the old
paint work still looks okay?
A: Brush over the whole surface using either
a steel wire brush or fairly coarse sandpaper — this will remove
any scale, loose flakes of rust and flaking paint, and will
also confirm that any remaining paint is firmly attached. Do
not remove all the rust -leave the layer which is attached to
the steel since the METALFIX will lock onto this. If the surface
has been contaminated (e.g, with sea water, etc) wash down with
fresh water and allow to dry. Stir the METALFIX thoroughly until
smooth (Do NOT add water to the paint) and brush (or spray/roller)
the paint over the patches of rust, allowing an overlap of approx
25 mm over the adjoining paint work.
Allow to cure. Next either (a) apply a coat of METALFIX 1000
(if you have this product available — the METALFIX 1000 is designed
for Non-Rusted surfaces) over the entire surface, or (b) use
the METALFIX instead, after first trying a small amount out
over a corner of the paint work to confirm that it will adhere
satisfactorily, which is most often the case. When dry, this
surface may then be top-coated with, e.g. KINGCOAT or “MAXICOAT
etc as required.
Q: If I find that I don't use all of the METALFIX at
once, can I still store it for use at a later date?
A: Yes, provided that the lid is firmly re-sealed
and the container is stored away out of the sun then the METALFIX
will keep for many years. Even if the product might look very
solid on standing, it can still be reconstituted. The best approach
(for METALFIX which has been around for a few years) is to slice
the paint up into chunks and mix using a mixing paddle attached
to an electric drill. Avoid adding water, although in extreme
cases no more than 2 - 3% by weight of water may be added sparingly.
Q: Can I use any type of top coat over the METALFIX?
A: Yes, so far we have not come across
any paint which will not go over the METALFIX primer. As a general
rule of thumb, Acrylics or Water-Based top coats can be applied
after 12 hours from METALFIX application, Single Pack Oil-Based
top coats can be applied after 12 - 24 hours, and aggressive
Two Pack Oil-Based top coats can be applied after 24 - 48 hours.
It is strongly recommended to use either PHOENIX “KINGCOAT”
or “MAXICOAT” for the best results.
Q: What are the Overcoating times for METALFIX,
and how can I tell if the product has cured properly?
A:
The Curing times (and hence the Overcoating times)
for METALFIX vary according to the prevailing temperature and
relative humidity — the higher the temperature, the quicker
the coating cures, but as the humidity rises, the product takes
longer to cure. Under normal circumstances you can overcoat
after 4 to 8 hours, but you can confirm that the coating has
cured by cutting two intersecting lines into the coating (using
e.g, a Stanley knife) right down to the metal surface. Apply
a clean strip of masking tape over the cross, and slowly pull
the tape away. If the paint is not lifted up at all, the coating
has cured. As a general rule, try to avoid applying METALFIX
onto hot surfaces, eg. in the full heat of a hot summer day
- the paint will be force-dried before the rust converting process
is completed.
Q: Are the METALFIX Products
made in Australia?
A: Yes,
the METALFIX Products are made to our own formulation at our
factory in O'Connor (Western Australia). Phoenix Paints is a
totally Western Australian — owned and operated Company.
Q: Can METALFIX be used for high temperature environments?
A: Yes, once the coating has fully cured, METALFIX
may be used for temperatures as low as MINUS 40°C or as
high as SEVERAL HUNDRED °C — one of our customers has even
tested METALFIX at 920°C (NINE HUNDRED AND TWENTY °C)
and reported that it worked perfectly! We have even used METALFIX
on corroded motor vehicle exhaust systems - as far as the manifold
where the temperatures become incredibly high where it is bolted
onto the engine.
Q: Can METALFIX
be used for repairing holes in rusty steel?
A: Yes, METALFIX is perfect for this because
the paint is thick and will seal even quite large holes several
millimetres across. You can still fix even larger holes (e.g,
10mm to 50mm or more) by using a patch of chopped glass fibre
sheet (as used in fibreglass work). Cut the patch so as to overlap
the hole by about 40mm all round, and brush METALFIX around
the edges of the hole. Brush METALFIX onto both sides of the
patch (the best method is to lay the latter onto a sheet of
clean newspaper), and when tacky, apply over the hole and pat
into position. Allow to harden, and apply a further 1 to 2 coats
of METALFIX. This technique can be used to extend the life of
virtually any corroded structure, e.g, steel roofs or even leaking
water tanks.
Q: What Coverage rates can I expect
to get with METALFIX ?
A:
Generally you can expect between 8 and 10 square metres per
litre, or perhaps slightly less if the rusted surface is heavily
corroded and pitted. The actual coverage will obviously depend
on how thickly the paint is applied. If no top coat is to be
applied, it is recommended to apply 2 coats of METALFIX.
Q: What else can METALFIX do?
A: Although METALFIX is mainly for use on rusted
steel, it can also be used to prime new ALUMINIUM, new GALVANISED
steel or even ZINCALUME. The coating should be applied in a
thin first coat, which then etches into the surface — thereafter
a full coat is applied and any top coat to follow. METALFIX
is a fire retardant coating and is non-toxic in the dry film.
However, provided that the new aluminium or new galvanised surfaces
have been cleaned with the 10% FLOORPREP solution first (and
rinsed off) we recommend the METALFIX 1000 RED as the best primer
for these surfaces.
OTHER PRODUCTS:
The details of frequently asked questions and answers
for other products will be available as soon as possible and
will be posted at the earliest suitable moment.
|
|
|
|
